One of the roman “must” is certainly the “Caffe Greco”, the oldest coffee shop in Italy after the mythical Florian in Venice. Founded in 1760 by some Greek that was called Nicola Greco (the Greek), this marvellous caffe is still in the same place, via dei Condotti, the street of the most luxury shops like Bulgari, Gucci or Tiffany, near the famous Spanish steps, in the hearth of Rome.

But the Caffe Greco is not just a very “chic” place to have a nice coffee and delicious pastries, it is a piece of history, a jump in the past. When you enter in a row of little drawing rooms with comfortable armchairs and the walls covered by 19th century paintings, you have a strange impression of being transported in the past. You can almost feel the presence of poets like Byron, or Shelley and Keats that lived in the neighbourhood (on the piazza di Spagna) and use to come often to the Caffe Greco.  Before them Casanova was already a regular. And later, Goethe, Chateaubriand, Stendhal, Wagner, Ingres, Corot, Henry James…The Caffe Greco was a part of the “grand tour “.

Nicola Gogol who lived for years in Rome wrote on one of the marble table of the Caffe his masterpiece, “The dead souls”. 
This artistic- intellectual tradition went on during the 20th century. Giorgio De Chirico, for example, had his table. And even now, amongst the tourist, it is always possible to find some painter sitting and working in one of the drawing rooms that look like the compartments of a an extraordinary train, even more beautiful than the Orient Express.

In these days, unfortunately, the future of the Caffe Greco is in danger because the owner wants more money from the “Antico   Caffe Greco Srl company” that already pays a very big rent. Probably he had received some extraordinary offer from an important label.  Fortunately, from the fifties, the Caffe Greco is officially considered as a “national monument” and should be protected by the ministry of Culture. Let’s hope! The lost of such a treasure is unimaginable.

Having a walk in the center of Rome, between the Pantheon and the Parliament, you cannot miss one of the most attractive and coloured shop window.
 
Not one of some luxury clothing shop, neither of a jewellery, even if there are many in the neighbourhood. No, the most spectacular shop front you’ll discover, at a few steps from the Pantheon, is that of Angelo Feroci. One of the best and the oldest roman butcher, since 1885 at the 15, via della Maddalena.

Called the “Bulgari of the meat “, he won, already in 1924, the gold medal at the International Exhibition of London for his  “fresh meat of fine quality”.
 
Italian and also Danish meat (beef, veal, lamb…) you can see on the beautiful marble counters that have more or less a century, is still of great quality. But that is only a little part of that amazing and beautiful shop where you can find much more.

So many masterpieces of cooked food or prepared to be put just in oven for a few minutes.  A lot of roman specialities as the polpette (meatballs) alla Romana, or Polpettone (big polpetta) stuffed with truffles, chestnuts, artichokes, ham and mozzarella, apples and prunes…  A very large assortment of vegetables is at your disposition too.
 
The best artichokes “alla romana” or fried” alla giudia” (an old roman jewish receipt). Even the mashed potatoes prepared with Parmesan is a masterpiece. As so many “antipasti”, to start with as broccoli’ pie, grilled eggplants or zucchini, stuffed with prosciutto, olives, mozzarella etc…

The family Polzella continued the tradition and, as in the shops of Castroni, another historical roman food store, you will be served by the brothers Polzella who will give you very kindly their advises and their receipts.
 
The only think that you will not find at Feroci is a dessert. No problem, you have to walk just for two minutes to the via degli Uffici del Vicario and take some marvellous ice cream or pastries in another historical place, Giolitti, the oldest ice cream parlour of Rome.

If you want to buy a good quality coffee, in beans, powder or capsules, or just to drink one of the best espressos in town, you have to go to one of the eleven “Castroni” shops that you can find in different parts of Rome. It is not a coffee shop (and in some of them you cannot even drink a coffee, just buy it) but much more than that: a sort of “épicerie fine” as would say the French. An even more for the Romans:  An institution.

The first shop of the Castroni group that was founded in 1932 by Umberto and his wife Augusta, was the one of via Cola di Rienzo that remains, even today, the best stocked one.
You can find in all shops of the group marvellous teas, spices, salts and many other very sophisticated specialities from all around the world. But also many Italian traditional high quality food as jams, honeys, pasta of all types and colours, chocolate, biscuits, wine, extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegars, truffle sauces etc… etc…

If you want to try to cook Italian during your staying in Rome, Castroni is the best place to go because you will not only find  the best food but also good advices. The fourth generation of the family Castroni has a rule: in every shop it has to be at least one member of the family. And that makes the difference. Even if the shops are huge, they have nothing to do with anonymous super markets but still have the humanity of little family groceries that are disappearing.

A visit to one of the Castroni shops is a must if you are in Rome also because it is the best place to find big or little gifts to bring home to your friends and parents . In these days especially, Castroni offers so many delicious Christmas traditional specialities, coming from the whole Italy, as torroncini, panettoni, amaretti, full of colours and joy.

If you are in Rome and you want to have a lunch or a dinner in a sumptuous and, in the same time, romantic dining room full of ancestries portraits, books shelters and soft lightening, you have to go  to “Casa Coppelle”.

In the very centre of Rome, on a little square, Piazza delle Coppelle, between the Pantheon and the Parliament, you’ll find a sort of magic oasis, decorated by one of the best interior designer in this moment, Jacques Garcia. The same of the famous  hotel Danieli in Venice and other beautiful and luxury hotels all around the world.

A very sophisticated and excellent roman- French cuisine is absolutely worthy of the marvellous 19th century atmosphere.  The menu is a sort of poem: 
“ Cod chaud froid served with aubergine caviar, pesto cream Mediterranean jelly and cherry tomatoes air. 
Port wine and Madeira marinated foie gras cooked in torchon and served with toasted brioche.
Beef tournedos with rose pepper flambé with cognac and matches of potatoes. Etc…Etc..

The choice of wines is very good and, before the coffee, you can’t miss the dessert. A typical French Profiteroles, an excellent Crème brulée or a home made ice cream.
And, if it is not too late, during the day, on the little square outside you can find fruits and vegetables from the roman country on a little market where a family sells her own products, already for decades. Piazza delle Coppelle is a must if you are in Rome!

The history of Carbonara is uncertain, mysterious and debated. There is not an official version recognized by all but many and various hypotheses about the birth of this delicious dish of the gastronomic tradition of Lazio Region, like the Amatriciana and Gricia.
 
There is a nationalist hypothesis that says that the birth of the Carbonara is related to the woodsmen who were producing charcoal during their seasonal migrations to the Apennines between Lazio and Abruzzo. They would bring saddlebags with eggs, pecorino cheese and pork cheek and they would prepare the pasta on open fires. In this case the recipe would be the evolution of the "cacio e ova" typically consumed by the farmers and by the woodsmen of these lands.

There is another (interesting) version that says that the recipe was born by chance during the occupation by the American troops in Italy, around 1944 with the introduction of bacon and lyophilized eggs. The legend says that American soldiers added their ration composed of bacon, cream and powdered eggs to spaghettis.
 
After the liberation of Rome, the dish became increasingly part of the menu of Roman taverns from 1946 onwards.

Carbonara’s history is complicated and uncertain while present-day Carbonara’s offer is much more clear and definite! That is why we want to present you a guide of the top 7 Carbonara’s in some of the best Roman restaurants.
Have a look to the Puntarella Rossa article from last year (still up to date) clicking here.

There is a magic address in Rome for kids:  via Flaminia 82.
 
At the beginning of one of the ancient Rome consular roads that starts from Piazzale Flaminio (and finishes on the Adriatic coast), nearby the very central Piazza del Popolo, you can find, walking just a few minutes along the tramway rails, inside the old tramway deposit of the Borghetto Flaminio, a double surprise.

A magnificent museum for children from 3 to 11 years (with twice a week, on Tuesday and Thursday, activities for babies from 0 to 3 years old) called “Explora”.  And also, in the same place, one of the oldest Neapolitan pizzeria (founded in Naples in 1870), the “ Antica Pizzeria Da Michele” that was opened in Rome last year by the descendants of Michele Condurra.

A double pleasure if you have children under 11.  And even if you don’t!  You’ll discover a fantastic place full of little Romans (that often visit the museum with their teachers) and little tourists from the entire world who play together. And then, you’ll enjoy your “Margherita”,  “Marinara” or  “Napoli”, the specialities of the “historical” pizzeria as did a few years ago Julia Roberts….a scene of the movie “Eat, pray, love” was shot “Da Michele”, in Naples.

The museum Explora has four sectors. The first is called “Me” and, to introduce the children to the mystery of life, recreates a mother ‘s womb. The second, “Society”, is a miniature town that has a supermarket, a post office, a bank, a petrol station and even a dentist. So the children can play and, through that, observe and experiment a daily life of adults. The third section is dedicated to the “Environment” with solar panels and waste recycling systems to teach the children how to respect the nature and their surrounding. The fourth sector is  “Communication” with a television news show made by the children that interact with all the available materials and tools.
 
An unforgettable experience for your family!

“Explora” is opened every day from 9H30 to 19h30 except on Monday.
Tel: 0039 06 3613776
 
Antica Pizzeria da Michele is opened from 12h to 17h and from 19h to midnight.
Tel 0039 06 32600432

Winter is very close and grape and olive harvests are almost completed in Italy.
Now it is time to rest a bit and tell you the amazing story of our olives harvest experience.
We are located in Maremma, the southern part of Tuscany: our country house lies within a working farm estate (27 acres) producing first quality Tuscan extra virgin olive oil.

The olive trees that are all around our house have seen many things and many people as they are much more old than our grandparents. There is a very special atmosphere, the time seems to stop some days, the surroundings are whispering stories about farmers and old traditions from once upon a time.

The olive picking usually starts at the beginning of November and ends in Mid December all around Tuscany depending on atmospheric conditions.
 
Olive harvesting is not an easy work: usually, the entire family, often friends and even seasonal workers are called to help during the harvest. Usually the older people of the area are the only people whit the know how in order to correctly decide when to start picking up these little green enchanted fruits. If you start too early the oil quantity will be modest, if you wait too much the taste will be bitter. This activity is not about science and numbers but about skills and experience.

The olives are picked by hand or with olive harvester shakers, they are stocked in nets and then in baskets that are transported the same day of the picking to the mill (the Frantoio). In order to have the best oil and to avoid fermentation the olives must be squeezed in 1 or 2 days from the picking.
There is an unrepeatable energy that is produced during these long days around, inside and over these beautiful trees. Probably brotherhood is the best term to define this nice atmosphere.

We do send our olives to the Mill (Frantoio) in Scansano, where Mister Osvaldo controls, manages and conducts all the different aspects of the squeezing procedure. First of all the olives are separated from the leaves and are cleaned with water.

Then the cleaned olives are pressed obtaining the Olive Paste as a result. Then this paste is gently mixed in order to help the separation of water from oil molecules.

The next step is extremely important and consists in the extraction of the olive oil: the paste is sent to a centrifuge that separates water from extra virgin oil. After 1 to 2 hours of procedures the “green gold” flows out of the machines and can be finally tasted on a crispy homemade Tuscan bread bruschetta. The only word that describes this moment is happiness.

Do you know want to learn how the olive oil is produced? Have you ever experienced the olive harvest tradition in Tuscany?
Many hands are needed to pick olives! That's why it could become a very interesting experience for you to join us, so contact us if you're coming to Tuscany during next Fall. We can host you in our marvelous villa!

A beautiful surprise is waiting for you in Rome, in the Termini Railway Station.  These last years, especially, the station was not at all a place where to stay more than the strict necessary time to catch a train.

Now it is completely restored and the right wing that was build in the thirties by a great architect of that time, Angiolo Mazzoni, closed for years, is again a beautiful opened space dominated by marble vaults (Cappa Mazzoniana) that houses (from the 5 of October) an extraordinary traditional Italian food market called "Il Mercato centrale", opened every days from seven in the morning until midnight in Via Giolitti 36.

Exactly like the one opened in Florence two years ago, at the first floor of the old San Lorenzo market by the famous Florentine chef Umberto Montano and that had, this year, more than 3 millions visitors.
This anti-fast-food place seems to have already a lot of fans.  It is so unusual to see all together so much high quality artisanal food especially in a place that never had an "Oyster Bar" (New York-Grand Central) or a Train Bleu restaurant (Paris- Gare de Lyon).

Inside the "Mercato Centrale", there is a restaurant on the first floor with the chef of a famous roman restaurant, Oliver Glowig, and tables everywhere (for 500 people). It is also possible to buy and take away anything, raw food to prepare at home or already cooked delicious traditional dishes. Fresh fish or meat, fresh pasta, pizzas, pastries, ice cream, chocolate, cheese, truffles, Sicilian specialities, salamis, artichokes, mushrooms and other roman specialities...Also bread and whine, vegetarian and vegan food, hamburger of the best beef from Tuscany, the "Chianina" etc...
 All together, there are 15 boutiques, 15 big names of Italian culinary tradition. Amongst them, the roman "pizzaiolo" Stefano Callegari that invented, years ago, the famous "trapizzino", a little jewel where a piece of pizza becomes a sort of "tramezzino" (sandwich of sliced bread) full of tasty food.

There is a strange contamination effect: when you leave the "Cappa Mazzoniana" and continue to walk inside the station, you notice that the quality of the food that you can find there, in the "bars" of the station, has improved, at least from an esthetical point of view, and it is a pleasure to go around and discover nice shops everywhere.
It should be even better in the next months if Umberto Montano, the creator of this magic "Mercato Centrale", succeeds to go on with his project that provides also cinema, theatre and other cultural events inside his Mercato Centrale that he wants to be "a space for high quality and culture, a place for interlocking".

"The beauty will save the world", said Dostoevsky. 
 
In this dark moment of the History, the best antidote is probably that: the beauty. And, in Rome, there is a magic place with an incredible concentration of natural beauty and art:  the Villa Borghese park.
 
This huge park in the hearth of the city is probably unique in the whole world. Here you can not only walk amongst the golden trees of an extraordinary Indian summer, or rent a row boat on a peaceful lake surrounded by roman pines and other trees and bushes, with a roman temple in the middle, in a purest romantic English Garden style, but also discover so many master pieces from all periods.

From the strange Mona Lisa smile of the Etruscan couple of the "Sarcophagus of the betrothed" that will welcome you in the "Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia" to the tiny but so alive Giacometti's sculptures and the solar Van Gogh's "Gardener" or Modigliani's "Reclining Nude" at the "Galleria Nazionale di Arte Moderna" (distant only a few minutes walking). 

Another very famous laying young lady, the beautiful Pauline Borghese, Napoleon's sister and prince Camillo Borghese's wife, sculptured by Antonio Canova as "Venus Victorious", will receive you in the first room, on the ground floor of the luminous "Galleria Borghese".
The Cardinal Scipione Borghese, an ancestor of the prince Camillo, built it for his magnificent collection of sculptures and paintings, at the beginning of the 17th century. You can still find there an important part of that extraordinary collection. Amongst all these treasures, The Bernini's "Rape of Proserpine" or his "Apollo and Daphne". But also a few Caravaggio:  "David with the head of Goliath", "Sick Bacchus", "St Jerome." A "Deposition" of Rubens or the famous Titian's "Sacred and Profane love"...

Not far from the Galleria, you can bring your children to the "Bioparco", a new word for the old Zoo, whit a population of 1.444 animals and 200 species. For the more curious, there is even a new little very avant-garde museum dedicated to the "Environmental Crimes". To regenerate yourself, you can find also a restaurant inside the Bioparco.

There are, however, in the Villa Borghese, other places, much more sophisticated, where you can have a lunch, a dinner or just a drink. One of them, a beautiful sunny terrace where you can sit outside in the middle of the winter if it doesn't rain, the "Caffé Delle Arti", is attached to the Museum of Modern Art (entrance Via Antonio Gramsci). The refined menu and the exquisite desserts seem to be just a natural continuation of the museum visit.
 
At the other side of the Villa Borghese Park, called the Pincio, other surprises wait for you. Coming up next...