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Croatia Boat Trip 2/5

20/7/2015

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Our next journey was from Scedro to Korcula Island. Leaving Lovisce bay early in the morning is a magic and peaceful experience while the feeling when you turn Scedro point towards Korcula’s channel is exciting and stimulating! The view opens up on Pakleni Islands, Peljesac Peninsula, Vis Island and the open sea in Italy direction. After 7 Miles of tranquil navigation (but be careful because winds coming from almost every direction can be tricky here) we reached the shores of Korcula, the Croatian greenest Island!
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It is rich in vineyards, olive groves and small villages, and harboring a glorious old town, the island is the sixth-largest Adriatic island, stretching nearly 47km in length. The dense woods led the original Greek settlers to call the island Korkyra Melaina (Black Korčula).
Tradition is alive and kicking on Korčula, with age-old religious ceremonies, folk music and dances still being performed to an ever-growing influx of tourists. Oenophiles will adore sampling its wine. Arguably the best of all Croatian whites is produced from pošip grapes, which are only grown here and to a lesser extent on the Pelješac Peninsula.
Our first stop was on the breathtaking shores of Proizd Island, just 300 meters form the western point of Korcula! In 2007 the little island was chosen as the Beach of the Year by the Croatian Tourist Board, whereas the British newspaper the Daily Telegraph placed it among the five most beautiful Adriatic beaches. Proizd has a rocky and pebbly coast and its north side is absolutely breathtaking. This is where Bili Boci, a beach with white smooth rocks immersed in a turquoise sea, can be visited. Not to be missed for a refreshing stop!
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Proizd
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Proizd
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Proizd
From Proizd we decided to visit the very deep bay of Vela Luka located 4 miles towards east! It is a pretty port set in a lovely natural harbour. Vela Luka is surrounded by hills covered with olive trees, and the production and marketing of Korčula’s famous olive oil is vital to the local economy. Tourism and fishing are the other main employers. Just have a coffee on one the nice bars of the harbour!

On the way back to the west before our long navigation towards the town of Korcula we decided to stop again for a swim in Gradina Cove, located on the north west of Vela Luka Bay. This broad bay is protected from most winds and represents an ideal anchorage for small boats with a freeboard of up to 4 m. The cove is shallow, with a partially pebbly coast and a sandy bottom, which is why it is often chosen by families with children. We really suggest a stop here, you will find calm seas and exceptionally bright blue waters.

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Vela Luka
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A Nice Bay Between Prigradnica & Racisce
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The Way Out From Vela Luka Bay
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Gradina Bay
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Gradina Bay
The idea was now to face a violent south eastern wind (Jugo) following all the long Korcula’s northern coast. And it is what we did! The shore is indented with a series of nice welcoming bays and various low islets mainly populated by seabirds and garrigue. The vegetation of the Island is surprisingly rich and varied, the most widespread is the Holm oak (evergreen oak), also highlights Aleppo pine, coastal pine, black pine and cypress. This is one of the most densely wooded islands in the Adriatic. The panorama is much more soft and green compared to the southern shore of Hvar with its steep slopes and intimidating rocks. The distance from the Proizd Island to Korcula town is about 25 miles and it is worth to do this journey to admire an untouched coast with just a couple of villages (Prigradica and Racisce) until the beginning of the Peljeski Channel, where the island is only about 1/1,5 kilometers far away form the mainland. Entering this channel is very exciting but take care of the winds that can accelerate consistently here because of the Venturi effect. The town of Korcula suddenly appears far away and the arrival there is just amazing!
Korčula Town is a stunner. Ringed by imposing defenses, this coastal citadel is dripping in history, with marble streets rich in Renaissance and Gothic architecture. Its fascinating fishbone layout was cleverly designed for the comfort and safety of its inhabitants: western streets were built straight in order to open the city to the refreshing summer maestral (strong, steady westerly wind), while the eastern streets were curved to minimise the force of the winter bura (cold, northeasterly wind). The old town is full of restaurants and small galleries and during the summer months it literally does not sleep because its narrow streets are swarmed by visitors. The most beautiful examples of palaces and churches originate from the 15th and 16th century and were constructed in a gothic-renaissance style. St. Marko’s Cathedral is situated in the most prominent part of the town, at the top of the peninsula.  A big altar painting with representations of Korčula’s patron saints Marko, Jerolim and Bartul, mid-16th century work done by the famous Venetian painter Jacopo Tintoretto, stands out among the paintings inside the cathedral.  In the old town you can also visit the house of Marco Polo, who is believed to have been born in Korčula in 1254.

Visiting Dalmatia without stopping in Korcula is like going to Rome and forgetting to take a look at the Coliseum! We suggest to stop here at least for 1 night…and this is what we did in Luka Bay, just 10 minutes walking from the town centre.
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Luka Bay
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Korcula Old Town
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Korcula
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Korcula Old Town
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Korcula Old town
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Korcula
We dedicated the next day and night to the very cool area located just some miles south east from Luka bay. We had the chance to visit Lumbarda and the islands and islets located in this region. Lumbarda, covered in pines and olive trees, is a laid-back town set around a harbour on the southeastern end of the Island Of Korcula. The sandy soil is perfect for vineyards, and wine from the grk grape is Lumbarda’s most famous product. In the 16th century, aristocrats from Korčula built summerhouses here, and it remains a quieter retreat from the more urbanised Korčula Town. The town beaches are small but sandy.
Just in front of Lumbarda, we had the chance to explore Vrnik Island, Planjak Island and Badija Island. This tiny archipelago (it has many other islets) has something extraordinary: even if we were in hot summer days in a typical Mediterranean location we had the feeling, for some moments, that we were in an Alpine environment. The air was so pure and clear, the mainland and the islands have a rich vegetation (mainly pines), the seaside was almost motionless…well it seemed to be on a lake in Northern Italy or in Switzerland!
Stay tuned for the next part of our trip! We visited some hidden coves on Brac Island, and a very special place called Vrbovska on Hvar Island!

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Panjak Island & Peljesac Peninsula On The Back
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Lumbarda
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Panjak Island Monastery
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Vrnik Island
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