We started our amazing sea trip early in the morning from Milna village, located on the western part of the rocky Brac Island. The welcoming bays of Milna have always been a favourite and safe port for sailors sailing through the Middle Adriatic. Milna is still reputed as the most beautiful and the safest harbour of Brač Island. The two highly equipped marinas in Milna offer high quality service even to the most demanding sailors. Stone houses along the beautiful long coastline are small masterpieces of Dalmatian architecture. In the village there is also a beautiful Baroque church with a typically Dalmatian bell tower. The interior of the church hides impressive works of Venetian masters. For years, Milna was known for its shipbuilding and the renowned Dalmatian boat “bracera” was first made here.
The exit from Milna harbour is smooth and safe as the deep bay protects you from winds and waves from almost all directions. Heading towards Splitska Vrata (Split Gate) separating Brac and Solta Island we sailed along the coast of the tiny Island of Mrduja, well known because the inhabitants of Brač and those of Šolta are still wrangling over whom the island belongs. They are still playing a game using a rope secured to many boats in an attempt to pull it from one side of the Split Channel to the other.
After just some minutes we reached the impressive Split Gate from where, from west to east in southern direction, your gaze encounters open Adriatic Sea, Vis Island, Pakleni Islands, Hvar Island and Brac Island. The view is amazing and the feeling is much more thrilling than the peaceful and relaxing Milna Bay mood. From Split Gate we decided to sail straight south for 8 nautical miles until Point Pelegrin, the most western part of Hvar Island. This short open sea crossing gives you the chance to admire the greatness of Brac Island and of the coastal mountains on the background! Once you overstep the point you enter in eastern direction the channel that separates the Pakleni Islands and Hvar Islands. The Navigation here is tranquil and exciting as Hvar town is only 3.5 miles and it quickly approaches from the horizon.
The arrival in Hvar can frighten in high season as the harbour is packed with hundreds of boats of different type, colour and dimension. But do not panic and try a way to get on the shore and explore the little town at least for a couple of hours! This one of the favourite destinations in Croatia and one of the most prominent and visited tourist centres in the whole Adriatic Sea. It is a place of a unique cultural and historical heritage! Admire the fortress, the Cathedral of St. Stephan, the Franciscan Monastery, the Town Loggia, the Hektorović Palace, the arsenal and the theatre. Hvar gained glory and power during Middle Ages being an important port within the Venetian naval empire. And you can feel Venice’s influence every step you do walking in the narrow streets and in the white stone piazza! After this cultural feast it is time to relax and explore the shores of the amazing Pakleni Islands in front of Hvar town!
The closest island is Jerolim, directly opposite to Hvar town and named after a now-disappeared church. Jerolim is the favourite among naturists who generally stroll away from the main jetty and stretch out on one of the shady coves. The islet is rocky but there are pine trees and maquis for shade. Nearby is the other island of Marinkovac, which hosts Stipanska, another naturist beach also equipped with showers and a shop. Another idyllic cove on Marinkovac is Zdrilca, which has several pebble beaches.
The largest Pakleni Island is Sveti Klement, well known for the beautiful Palmizana bay. Here, azure waves caress a sandy cove surrounded by pine forests, heather fields and breezes scented by aromatic herbs. Palmizana has been a favourite getaway for Hvar islanders since the turn of the 20th century when a Professor Eugen Meneghello built a summer house there. Now it houses a small museum and a gallery. Nearby, Vlaka is a small fishing village reachable in an easy hour walk from Palmizana. The only way to reach these paradise spots is obviously by boat! We suggest you to deeply explore all the secret coves and the hidden natural beauties over but also under the sea. A night here will recharge your batteries!
The second day we decided to continue our navigation in Easter direction following the southern Hvar coastline that is mainly steep, rocky and covered with vineyards. They are built as terraced steps in a very tricky terrain and in the old days they were reachable only by a long trek up and over the passes. The view is breathtaking, the colors, the perfumes and the tastes of these wines are very special because of the fertile land caressed by the sun and the sea breeze! Have a look here to discover something about Croatian Wines! After overtaking the picturesque villages of Sveta Nedilja and Ivan Dolac we started approaching our final destination for the second sailing day! It is Scedro Island, separating the Southern Hvar Shore and the Northern Shore of Korcula Island.
Protected as a nature park, in its untouched beauty, with many hidden coves, it provides an intimate experience to every visitor and once you feel the charm of those quiet coves, sweet aromas of nature and glimmering sun on crystal clear water you would want to stay forever.
Since the Ancient times Šćedro coves have been known as good places for anchorage and safe harbors. Long time ago because of the somewhat more humid climate than that on the island of Hvar, wheat was cultivated on Šćedro. On the hill there is an old abandoned village called Nastane, which will take you back to history with its picturesque stone houses. A Dominican monastery was founded in the Bay of Mostir (1465), together with a hospice for sailors, and abandoned in the 18th century. Around 30 people live on the island in summer. We decided to anchor in Lovisce bay, just facing Hvar Island, because it is very well protected from all southern winds that were blowing that day. The bay is very deep and it is relaxing for sailors who want to have a break in one of the two restaurants that are preparing fresh local fish!